This page will provide a ‘short list’ of recommended cultivars of non-native fruiting and some common native fruiting plants. Click here to view the Native Fruiting Plants page. Only the more common fruiting plants will be listed here. There are of course a large number of fruiting plants that can be grown here. Download the Fruit Variety Comparison document listed under the resource file section to see a larger number of fruiting plant possibilities.
Additional downloadable files are available and more will be added over time. Look in the “Resource Files” in the column on the right for these documents.
The best fruit trees are the ones that have grown in our local area for years (local heirlooms) with minimal disease issues (pest problems are another issue). Propagating local ‘heirloom’ trees may one way to have a good variety.
The recommended varieties are ones that have some degree of resistance to common diseases, and are reasonably productive. (We hope to add more fruit variety comparison charts in the future) Not everyone’s experiences will be the same since our local growing environments vary widely. Sunlight, soil type, moisture and soil fertility are some of the factors governing tree health and productivity.
This is mostly a list of fruit trees that are likely more resistant to diseases. Insect, bird and mammal pests are another issue altogether and will require preventative measures.
Apple - Apples are affected more adversely by common diseases (cedar apple rust, scab, mildew, fireblight) than most other fruiting plants. Boring insects can also be an issue. There are just a few apples that have more resistance to some of the common diseases. Your selection of an apple does not need to be limited to this list (there may be others to add), but these varieties should be given some consideration. Choosing apples that are not resistant to the common diseases will require spraying. Also, there are other pests that can affect your apples that may require some attention. Pollination should not be a problem in our area.
Varieties include: Ashmeads Kernel, Baldwin, Enterprise, Freedom, Golden Russet(?), Jonafree, Liberty, Murray, Nova Easygro (thin twigs), Pristine, Redfree, Rebella TM Rezista, Releika (?), Roxbury Russet, Williams Pride, (see the entry under Crabapple) – [the question mark indicates that the data and local observations are not conclusive at this time but is a likely a reasonable choice]
Apricot – Tough trees. The main problem is frost damage to blooms. Plant in the coldest part of your yard to retard spring awakening.
Recommended variety: Jerseycott
Black walnut - Most people dislike them because of their toxic roots (is toxic to some plants) and the nuts that fall on lawns. Planted in appropriate out of the way locations, it would be a sturdy tree. We would recommend planting named varieties that have better nuts (more meat, easier to crack). They are native, drought resistant, and are long lived trees.
Varieties include: Daniels, Emma Kay, Football, Rowher, Ridgeway, Sauber, Schrieber, Suprise, Thomas Myers, etc.
Pollination: Should not be an issue in our area.
Cherry – Aside from recommending Sand Cherries, Nanking Cherries & other species, there are varieties of Sour (Pie) & Sweet cherries to consider. Our research is not as extensive on cherries but they can grow here successfully. Cherries are vulnerable to late spring frosts which will affect the fruit set. They are also susceptible to a variety of diseases (black knot, leaf spot, brown rot and others). Pests include borers and curculio. Borer prevention is essential since the holes provide pathways for other diseases. Trees that are given good care and planted in better situations (sunny well with good airflow), will do better. Keep an eye out for older ‘heirloom’ varieties that have done well in our area. There are plenty of pollinators in the area, but is helpful to group different cultivars in a given planting.
Sour (Pie) Cherry – Pie cherries generally have a better track record in our area than sweet cherries. They are tough plants, have fairly consistent fruit production and have minimal pruning requirements. Varieties include: Montmorency, North Star, local heirlooms
Sweet Cherry - Bing(?), Royal Ann(?), Hedelfingen(?)
Cornelian cherry – This is an edible dogwood with attractive flowers and foliage. It may prefer more protected areas but does makes a good hedge, and is a small tree.
Varieties: Any named varieties would be acceptable.
Pollination: Need to plant two different varieties to ensure pollination.
Crabapple – They produce smaller fruit good for wildlife. Many can be eaten or made into jam. Ornamental white blooms and red fruit. We are recommending the Evereste patented variety. Is very resistant to diseases. There are also others that have some resistance such as Dolgo, Centennial, etc. Pollination comes from local crabapples and apples. Not an issue. Some pruning is required. The tree size depends on the rootstock.
Currants & Gooseberries – These are fairly tough plants but some are susceptible to white pine blister rust and mildew. Most currents are either black or red and have distinctive flavors and uses depending on which type you get. Recommended resistant currant varieties include: Ben Sarek, Minag Smyriou, Titania, Minnesota #52, Jostaberry, Jhonkheer Van Tets (?), Red Lake (?), Rovada (?) and Crandall (aka Buffalo Currant, Clove Currant and a cultivar named Crandall).
Hazelnut – This plant is native, drought resistant, grows in shade or sun, and can be a good hedge plant. No pruning required. Ornamental value. There are some named varieties with larger nuts. Hazelnuts planted in the open, away from trees will less likely be visited by squirrels. Pay attention to the source descriptions since some are more tree like and others are more shrubby.
Varieties – Avoid European filberts because of potential disease issues. Hybrids or pure Corylus Americana seedlings or rooted clones will work fine. The hybrids will make bigger nuts. Varieties include: Delta, Gamma, Gem, Jefferson, Lewis, Tonda di Giffoni, Santiam, Clark, and Yamhill. There are also good seedling hybrids from Badgerset.
Pollination – Pollinated by the wind, should have plantings in close proximity to ensure pollination. Check catalogue descriptions to make sure you plant varieties that will pollenate each other.
June Berry / Service Berry – This is a smaller bushy plant. Some species are native to our region and other are native in other parts of North America. Some of the bushes may sucker, forming a dense shrub. The foliage is attractive and ornamental. Likes sun and some moisture.
Varieties include: - Amelanchier canadensis (this is a small bushy tree), Regent, and Smoky are some cultivars. There are many others.
Pawpaw – They are native, grow in shade, have ornamental value, and don’t require pruning. Named varieties would make better fruit. They prefer deep soils and areas that are relatively more moist. Should be planted as an understory tree (under the shade of another tree).
Varieties – There are many fine named varieties to select from and most would be very acceptable. The variety Mango grows faster than most. Some varieties are Sunflower, Mango, Overleese, Rebecca’s Gold, Prolific, Wells and many others.
Pollination – Planting different varieties in the same area will help although hand pollination is the best method to produce fruit.
Peach – Peaches can do well here but are susceptible to blossom damage from late spring frosts. Boring insects can be a problem but there are ways to deal with that. Recommended varieties include: Redhaven, Reliance.
Pears – The main pear disease issue is fireblight and scab. Pears are divided into two categories here – Asian and European types. Pears are tough trees and generally do very well here.
European Pears – These pears are usually picked just before they ripen on the tree and are stored or ripened in your kitchen. Pears ripen from the core out, so if allowed to completely ripen, they may be too ripe for good eating and will not be any good for storage. Usually putting a pear in a bag with another pear or apple will cause it to ripen within a week. Varieties include: Ayers, Kieffer, Luscious, Magness (weak pollen producer), Moonglow, Potomac, Seckel, Summercrisp, Tyson, Warren.
Asian Pears - Fairly disease resistant except for fireblight (see specific notes on varieties). Ripens differently than the European pear, can be eaten fresh off the tree. Minimal pruning requirements. Good eating. Ornamental value. Varieties – Shin Li (FB resistant), Tse Li (some FB resistance), Ya Li (some FB tolerance & a pollinator for Tse Li), Shinseiki (FB susceptible), Shinko (FB resistance), Olympic (tolerance to FB), etc.
Pecan – A large, native, tough and long lived tree. Pecans requires deeper soil, and pruning is minimal. There are many good northern varieties. An excellent reference is http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/library/hort2/mf1025.pdf ‘Growing Pecans in Kansas.’
Varieties Colby (2), Peruque (1), Pawnee (1), Posey (2), Major (1), Kanza (2)
Pollination – This is critical in order to get nuts. Pollinating partner trees need to be within 200 feet of one another and are pollinated by the wind. The critical aspect is matching up trees. Some trees make pollen earlier than they are receptive to receive it which prevents self pollination. Therefore, some trees make pollen either early or late and are receptive either early or late. Cultivars that release pollen before their stigmas are receptive are protandrous (1) and those that are receptive before pollen release are protogynous (2). These numbers are attached to the recommended varieties above. For pollination a (1) and a (2) should be planted within the recommended distance.
Persimmon – These are native, tough trees, and require minimal pruning. Don’t plant adjacent to traffic areas. There are many good varieties to choose from. The fruit is delicious when ripe.
Varieties – Early Golden, Ruby, Yates, Meader, Miller, Golden Supreme, and others
Pollination - Needs a male tree in the vicinity. There seem to be a good distribution of trees in the area and a male may not need to be intentionally planted.
Plums - Plums (trees) in general seem to do fairly well in our area but fruit may be issue due some disease issues and weather conditions. More common diseases include black knot. Pests include boring insects, and curculio. Plums are divided into four categories – European plums (prunus domestica – some are good for drying/prunes), Asian plums, Hybrids (usually a mix of native American and Asian species), and Species (such as our local common American plum, prunus Americana). Most of these plums will do well here. Late spring frosts may eliminate a crop every once and a while. Your selection does not need to be limited to this list.
European plums – Varieties include: Green Gage, Mount Royal, President, Stanley.
Hybrid plums – (smaller fruit, tough plants) Varieties include: Alderman, Gracious, Kaga, Kahinta, La Crescent, Pembina, Percy’s, Superior, Tecumseh, Toka, Underwood, Waneta.
Asian plums – Varieties include: Shiro, Santa Rosa
Species plums – Prunus Americana,
Additional Link Pages
3) a) Fruit Info Sites b) Special research tools
5) Local Nurseries and Orchards
6) Mail Order Nurseries, Supplies
7) Web Articles – Fruiting Plants
